Epoxy floor coating · Tyler, TX
Epoxy floor coating in Tyler, TX for garages and workshops
We apply epoxy floor coating in Tyler, TX to garage, shop and workshop floors. The concrete is ground, repaired and moisture-checked first, then coated so it resists oil, chemicals and hot tire marks and cleans up with a mop.
Is it right for you?
Your floor is stained and dusty
- Oil and fluid stains will not come out of the bare concrete
- The floor sheds dust that tracks into the house
- You want a brighter, cleaner-looking garage or shop
- A cheap DIY coating is peeling up under the tires
Why DIY epoxy peels
Most failed garage coatings were rolled onto concrete that was only washed or acid-etched. Epoxy needs an open, rough surface to bond to, and it needs a slab that is not pushing moisture up from below. Hot tires then lift the weak spots. That is why prep is most of the job.
How we coat a floor
- Moisture check: damp slabs make coatings blister, so we check first.
- Diamond grinding: the surface is ground to open the concrete and remove old sealers and coatings.
- Repairs: cracks and pits are filled and ground flush.
- Base coat: epoxy is applied over the prepared floor.
- Flake (optional): color chips broadcast into the wet coat hide dust and add texture.
- Topcoat: a clear protective coat, often polyaspartic or urethane, which holds up better to sunlight than epoxy alone.
Grip and upkeep
A smooth coated floor can get slick when wet. Flake and a textured topcoat add grip. Day to day, sweep it and mop with mild soap. Hot tire pickup, oil and most spills wipe right off.
New floors and old floors
A new concrete floor needs to cure about a month before coating. Old floors are fine as long as they are sound. Badly cracked or sunken slabs should be repaired first, because a coating will not hold a broken slab together.
Done to standard
How we do it to standard
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The coating is bonded, not just stuck on.
We diamond grind or shot blast the surface to an open profile before an overlay or coating.
Coatings and overlays need something to grip. Washing or acid etching alone is why DIY coatings peel.
Standard ICRI 310.2R defines concrete surface profiles (CSP 1 to 10); most thin coatings call for CSP 2 to 3.
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No blisters a month later.
We test slab moisture before coating, and do not coat a slab that fails.
Moisture coming up through the slab pushes coatings off as blisters.
Standard ASTM F2170 (in-slab relative humidity probes) and ASTM F1869 (calcium chloride test) are the standard concrete moisture tests.
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The floor keeps its color.
We finish epoxy floors with a UV-stable topcoat such as polyaspartic.
Epoxy yellows in sunlight. A garage with the door open gets plenty.
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The new surface lasts as long as the slab does.
We only overlay or coat concrete that is stable, and repair active cracks first.
A thin overlay or coating follows the slab under it. Moving cracks come back through.
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Moisture stays below the slab.
We lay a polyethylene vapor retarder, lapped and taped, under slabs for living space and under floors that will be coated.
Ground moisture moves up through concrete. It ruins flooring and is the main reason floor coatings blister.
Standard IRC R506.2.3: a 6-mil polyethylene (or approved) vapor retarder with joints lapped at least 6 inches goes under slabs on ground for conditioned space.
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You know what you are paying for.
We put the thickness, steel, finish, prep and haul-off in a written scope before anything is scheduled.
Two quotes for the same driveway can be for very different slabs. The scope is how you compare them.
Step by step
How a coating job goes
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Check the slab
Moisture, cracks and old coatings.
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Grind and repair
Diamond grind, fill cracks and pits.
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Coat
Epoxy base, flake if you want it.
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Topcoat and cure
Clear topcoat, then time before parking.
Know the words
Terms you'll hear
- Peeling coating
- A floor coating lifting off the concrete. Almost always poor prep or slab moisture, not the product.
- Slab moisture
- Water vapor moving up through a concrete slab. It pushes coatings off as blisters. It is tested, not guessed.
- Epoxy
- A two-part resin that bonds to prepared concrete and cures hard. It resists oil and chemicals. It yellows in sunlight without a UV-stable topcoat.
- Polyaspartic
- A fast-curing clear coating used as a topcoat over epoxy. It holds up to sunlight and abrasion better than epoxy alone.
- Diamond grinding
- Grinding the concrete surface with diamond tooling. It opens the surface so coatings and overlays can bond, and grinds down trip edges.
- Laitance
- A weak layer of fine paste on top of concrete. Coatings stuck to laitance peel with it. Grinding removes it.
Questions we hear
Frequently asked
How long until I can park on it?
Foot traffic usually comes first, then vehicles after the coating fully cures, typically a few days. It depends on the products and temperature.
Will epoxy fix a cracked garage floor?
Cracks get filled before coating, but a coating does not stop a moving slab. Active cracks can show through.
Is epoxy slippery?
Smooth epoxy can be when wet. Flake and a textured topcoat make it much grippier.
Why not use a DIY epoxy kit from the store?
Kits usually skip grinding and moisture testing, which is why they peel under hot tires.
Ready to talk about your concrete?
Let's get your project on solid ground.
Tell us what you need and we'll get back to you to talk it through and set up a time to look at the job.
Prefer to call?(903) 555-0100